Skip to main content

twisting a limb from stringing a recurve with the step-through method-- real or overexaggerated?

Ok I just got downvoted in another thread for suggesting that someone use a step-through method to unstring a recurve. I've heard all over the place that using the step-through method can twist a bow limb. But I own an old vintage stemmler recurve that was probably made in the 60s or 70s, and I've been step-through stringing and unstringing it since the 90s and the limbs remain straight as an arrow. I don't really see how I could twist a limb, as I make sure to line up my limbs and bend them straight. I can even string it while sitting down.

Furthermore, archers have been using variants of the step-through method to string their bows for millennia. Is it really so bad to use the step-through method? Are bow-stringers possibly just another way for archery companies to sell you something you don't need?

I can see a bow-stringer might be nice for a beginner, since the step-through method can take a little bit of time get used to, but once you are able to do it, I feel like the danger of twisting a limb is super exaggerated. What are people's thoughts?

edit: ok so, watching some videos of people doing step through, I see some people pressing on the very tip of their recurve, which does seem a bit risky and like it could potentially slip or twist. But if you just put pressure about 6 inches below the tip and mostly focus on applying force with your butt/leg onto the center of the bow, it's very easy to do right and safely. People make the mistake of trying to bend the bow with their arms, I think. You're not bending with your arms, you're bending with your butt/legs and your arms are just there to guide the bow and keep it straight.

submitted by /u/Publius12
[link] [comments]

from newest submissions : Archery https://ift.tt/3lhqG0D
via

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Question on bow fit - Mathews V3 31"

Long story short: I decided after 2 years to upgrade my used Dreniln. Went in to a local shop and they steered me towards a V3. In hindsight they didn't spend near as much time with me as they should have. Anyway, my wingspan is just under 76" and the bow is set at it's max draw length of 30.5". In order to get a good sight picture and have my nose touch the string, I need to tilt my head down just slightly, which then causes my jaw to change position and a loose a bit of my anchor point. Is this common for a shorter bow, or should I really have gone with a bow that goes to 31" and/or a longer axle to axle to get a better angle? V3s are hard to come by around here so I may be able to recoup most of the cost of the bow if I decide to switch. Not sure what to do. I went back to the bow shop and the guy said "That's the cool thing about archery, some people move there head, lean back, lean forward, it's all a matter of how you want to shoot"...I...

(New?) Dual Takedown Recurve Case Option

Before I get to the case. HUGE shoutout to u/FerrumVeritas to all of his fawking awesome posts about equipment, risers, etc. Me and some friends started archery a few weeks ago, and after weeks of looking around and compiling info, the best I could share with my friends are mostly his posts interspersed with my own opinions and analysis in our shared spreadsheet. To the case! Not that I looked, but it doesn't look like anyone has done this yet? I wanted a case, but didn't want to carry around a rifle sized case. Nor did I want something obscenely heavy. I prefer a hardcase, but they were all exorbitantly expensive. I like the look of SKB, and the reviews and reputation is there; but for the price, I don't feel like the value is there. I also wanted something a bit different. Enter the Pelican 1605 Air! Website measurements showed a 25" riser was a tight fit in the Pelican, so I took a gamble that 1/2" of foam was plenty to protect the riser's ends. ...

Help me identify a problem with aiming.

So im trying to learn how to gap shoot, but the problem is, the first step is 'use the tip of the arrow'. Now when I do this, I can already tell before shooting that if I use the tip of the arrow, the shot will go way left, this is obviously before even factoring in the gap above and below the target. I don't have too much trouble grouping in the yellow at 10ms, but the way im 'aiming' is just looking at the target and knowing that I need to shoot a certain distance to the right and a certain distance down. Im not using the arrow tip here...its hard to say exactly what im using as the reference its just a feeling I guess? I wouldn't say its instinctive as im definitely trying to aim I just don't know how im doing it, and I don't think it would hold up as I increase distance so I want to learn how to gap shoot properly. I appreciate having to adjust up or down as thats part of gap shooting, but if im having to compensate right, what could the problem ...